Beautiful Custom Clothing: Part Two: Fitting the Canvas

                         After you finish doing the first mock-up or canvas, you have your first client fitting. This is important as especially with unusual body types, you will need more fittings. 3-5 fittings is typical for the industry. The most I have had to do is 12. Robyn required two canvas fittings here and she was pretty relaxed about the whole thing. You can see the first set in her hands. It generally takes 15-45 minutes for a fitting. Typically it takes me longer...I'm weird in that I like to make corrections on the fly and hand them back to the customer when drafting the master, but some clients DO NOT like to wait at all.
                         The major advantage and reason people do this  is how much better the finished look turns out. Most experienced patternmakers will bluntly refuse to make high-end garments without fittings. This is where you shave off the extra 25-30 lbs a tailored garment will take off of a ready-to-wear garment and reduce ease for a slimmer and taller look. A shirt you buy in the store will have an extra 4-6 inches to it. A tailored suit will have only 1-2, but move just as well. I'm giving Robyn the master block I created for her so perhaps we will get to see some more skirts on her in the future. I love skirts...I really think that they are something that most women could make at home provided they got a patternmaker to draft the master for them. If you notice the back, I put in side vents to flatter her waist and help her move better. Alright, next up...working in real fabrics.
 

Beautiful Custom Clothing: Part One Drafting the Master Pattern

             Alright, I've been really good for weeks holding my excitement and joy about this project in. My favorite comic book characters growing up were Batman and Wolverine. Nash is in the process of expanding the front office with a real drafting table and tools which means I can finally do custom women's clothing, including unusual designs and body types as it gives me space to work out the math. As a result, I hope to show you more beautiful clothing as tailored clothes make people look 25-30 lbs lighter and 2-3 inches taller. My way of adding beauty to the work. For there are many more beautiful women and men in the world than our modern short-cuts recognize. So this week we are showing you a project I loved doing which was making a custom Two-Face outfit for a client who was unusually well endowed. One of the frustrating things for women with larger than average curves in modern times is it tends to make them look fat or matronly instead of beautiful. Or really trashy. Sometimes you don't want to look like a hooker or a blob, but you...a really nice version of you. And that's when you come to see me.
              First, I take a bunch of measurements to determine your overall bodynshape. This is still an imperfect system as posture requires tweaking as few people stand the same way, but it's always a great place to start. Then I have to draft the master block pattern. There's probably 200 different major pattern systems out there, they all get you through the basics which includes a technical sketch, measurements, rulers, and drawings. You can also drape the piece, but I normally start with the flat pattern math and then adjust it to reality. Next you draw full scale patterns on oak paper in preparation to cutting out the first mock-up. This may also be called a canvas, blank, visual prototype, and several other names depending on what you are making. But the math is the important part.

          Once you do the math, you have to translate it into fabric because paper will never be an exact match for fabric. This part is normally straight forward and involves several hours of cutting and sewing to produce a finished piece or pieces. Seam lines will often be marked on them as well as any button placements. In my case, I did not mark the buttons as I plan to put them on last at the final fitting with the client wearing the outfit as it ensure the best possible fit. You see this in higher end outfits, but larger scale operations and lower cost places the buttons are marked and assembled before the final end to save time and cost.
           Just a note, block or masters will be saved in large houses and used from decade to decade. They are much easier to sew and change than home sewing patterns. That's why few industry houses ever bother with home sewing patterns. They're just too much work compared to real patterns. 

She Drives in Beauty

This morning the sun was breathtaking on the way to my work. Most beautiful dawn I've seen in years. I had another post planned, but this seemed worth sharing instead. I hope your day is always full of wonder.

Repair Jobs: Motorcycle Seat Recover

             In a perfect world, every designer is brilliant, without flaws, and everything made sews together perfectly. However, in the real world, we all know that doesn't exist. Very good shops have a 1-2% failure rate and poor ones have a 20-40% failure rate. That means that all things being equal, eventually if you sew you WILL be stuck doing repair work. AKA, fixing yours or others mistakes. Today, I am posting a repair job I completely struggled with. Figured it would do you my reader good to see that in the real world...sometimes upon taking apart a job you find instead of simply replacing a lower quality fabric with a higher one, the entire job  must be reworked before you can fix the item in question. When I first got started, I thought that lower price points had to do mostly with lower quality finishes, but being in the industry...it seems to touch every aspect of the manufacturing construction. If you cut corners in the final fabric, you also cut corners on the hidden elements customers can't see. Especially true if you move from Made in the US or Europe or Made in China or Asia. You need those guts to last you 15-20 years. An expensive looking bag without the interfacing and lining necessary will fall apart just as quickly with you having wasted your money to no purpose.
              Sounds pretty esoteric right? Let me demonstrate. The following is a "leather" motorcycle seat a friend gave me to fix for them as a favor-in-trade. Upon getting the seat, the entire thing was actually ripped up VINYL in pretty bad shape...I probably should have handed it back at that point, but what girl doesn't love a challenge every now and then? I honestly think that my guy friend's wait and ambush me on day's I'm feeling empowered for something hard.
               Anyways, upon taking it apart...the entire thing was a nightmare! Cheap foam under the vinyl was falling apart. No guts. No reinforcement at all. Oh my... Before I could even begin to fix the seat, I had to add a new foam padded core, top, and muslin cover. You can see it all pretty here with the sewn leather pieces below it all clipped together with clothesline pins. The thing looked like an old couch you neighborhood puppy got into in his chewing phase before.

              After you finish the foam upholstery, you have to cut out and assemble the leather cover. With heavier leather like this automotive upholstery leather, you need to pull out your sewing hammer and harness needles to beat and force any misbehaving points into shape before you sew them. Sewing hammers are great for working with bitchy heavy weight leather you need to sew right the first time without screwing up. Going from vinyl to leather is horrible in terms of pattern-making because leather stretches much less as it is more durable and less resistant to wear and tear. You also have to add seam lines for rider resistance so they don't just slip off the back end the first time they give the bike gas. And you will need to have a hole punch to sew those hard to reach places a machine can't get properly.  I don't know why, but most repair jobs I do involve at least some hand-sewing on my part. I think mostly because I'm assembling them in a different order than the original maker and haven't done a million seats.
           Finally, you are left with a finished seat cover ready for stapling and sending out the door.  Wow, that was a lot of work. Hopefully I can avoid any more repair work until after the Christmas season. I had to do a lot of boat repairs this spring (funny enough I don't think I bothered to post any of those on the blog). Maybe next year I'll get remember to post some of those. Not sure how many people like watching me restore old things to working order. But upgrading products are awesome.

Have a great day people!

Help Support Fellow Artists! Go Sirius B.~!

          One of the great things about what I do is seeing fellow designers and artists grow. Last year we got help on our Yoxi campaign for saving the environment by helping to reduce industry waste from the awesome band, Sirius B. This year, they are releasing their newest album and raising funds on Kickstarter! Go guys!
       I've been trying to figure out how to import their Kickstarter campaign for two weeks, but apparently my tech is failing me so I grabbed a fun video off youtube they've done and encourage you to check out their campaign on Kickstarter. It's really fun. These guys are just lovely laughs and happiness. For $8, you can get your very own digital copy. Nash and I are getting matching t-shirts as well. This is my favorite local Asheville bands. They're great. Alright, my little bit of happiness is shared with you guys for the week! This state has so much raw talent. I love seeing what everyone does!

    And keep up the good work guys! You all rock!




     

August 24th: Etsy Night of Craft 7-10 pm

       Yeah, it's time again for the annual Etsy Craft Party! A lot of you had a blast coming last year, we're rockin' it again. Roth is celebrating with $3 drinks (even the good stuff) and we're having a food truck come. Techshop RDU is also hosting so we are throwing out the red carpet! DELICIOUS fun! Based on the two big parties we threw last year, we decided our group prefers free wheeling and dealing with multiple tables set-up with projects for people to jump from one to the other and try or sample. Do what you want! A buffet of treats for the eyes and fingers. Please feel free to come hang out and bring a friend, we will have tons of supplies and projects to give away. You do not have to be a member to come. Children and families welcome.

You can sign-up here on meet-up! Please, please, please, sign-up. The more people we have come, the more free stuff Michaels is sending....so the more the merrier! :-)

Right now, we have the following planned, if you have an idea you want to add or suggest, shoot me an e-mail at: dsmcginn1@lisashay.com. Creativity welcome. :-) At the moment, I have our projects divided up by area, more will be added at we get closer. :-) Some people may recognize some of the awesome projects from last year, if you missed doing something last year, now is your chance to do it this year.  And try your hand at something new.

Location (Forge):

Blacksmithing (Nash Page): Watch traditional metal armour being crafted. Nash is the blacksmith instructor at Techshop RDU and Dream Coach. He will be giving away several small projects as well as generally just having fun. You are welcome to hang out with him and watch the process.

Sand Metal Casting(Evan Daniels): One of the great instructors at Techshop, Evan is going to be hanging out with Nash demonstrating metal pouring techniques. If you are interested in casting in metal, please drop by. You are welcome to bring a piece you would like done before hand, flat shapes that can rendered in two dimensions work best. Please contact Evan if you have specific questions about what you want to bring.

Location (Roth Brewing):

Wire Twisted Jewelry: Come try your hand in the bar with traditional wire twisting and bead-work. We will be inside at the bar making drop earrings and necklaces. Free free to try your hand at making a new look for back to school.

Friendship Bracelets: Try your hand at this classic. Because somethings are too fun not to do.

Leather and Wood Block Painting: From ancient times, the oldest paintings in many cultures are wood because of it's durability and beauty. Acrylic paints were designed to specifically speed up this process for WW II by making fast drying oil paints. Acrylic paints work wonderfully on leather and wood. Right now, you're seeing nail polish shoes on runways everywhere. This is a great way to make art your own. Come try your hand painting your own pair of shoes or the wood blocks we will have available for people to take home. A great way to breath life into well-loved shoes. Check-out these amazing shoes done by Nicole. I love this trend right now.

Knitting Circle: Bring your current or new project to knit or crochet on comfy leather chairs. A great way to pass an evening in comfort with delicious beer. Yarn and tools will be available if you have never tried it before, this is a great time to start.


Location (Techshop Kitchen):

Potato Stamps: For those of us who like working with knives and paint, this project is for you. Many people don't realize that your kitchen is a great place to make quick and easy stamps with stuff you have lying around. Potatos make a great medium for custom stamps that can be done quickly and easily to create one of a kind cards and looks. Martha Stewart loves doing this favorite for custom Halloween gift bags, I'm sure you can dream up your own creation.

Custom Paper(Shannon): Microwaves are awesome if you like paper crafts, you can make your own design, dry it, and then apply potato stamps to the final product. Lacquer makes the entire look permanent. A great way to quickly design works of beauty.

Location (Techshop Conference Room):

Craft Swap: Bring a supply, take a supply. This is a great way to clean out space in your closet and look forward to starting a new project. We will have supplies available for people to take home and also keep any left-over supplies for future meetings. :-)

Apron Art (Dara): Where would the perfect project be without a fabulous apron to complete it? Make your own apron and decorate it with glitter, rhinestones, and other art. Now, you know you can dress for the occasion. Because art is fun!

Wood Carving: Try your hand at creating custom works of art in wood. You can do wood carving with a hot iron or knife. The results are unique creations.

More to Follow! Have a great day everyone and look forward to seeing you in a few weeks.

Helmet Part 2: Cutting and Hammering Metal

             Alright, earlier this week we went over the basics of sketching or drafting a prototype and doing a mock-up. Eventually though, you have to move to the real stuff. In this case metal. After several mock-ups, Nash heads over to the machine shop to use a variety of shears of all sizes to mold the sheet metal into the basic shape outline before he starts hammering the pieces into shape. Each piece must be individually traced, cut, and double-checked for accuracy.
               Next, Nash takes each piece and begins to form it into shape with a series of hammers. The rough shape is generally worked with a large hammer and then he uses a rubber hammer against a leather head mold (yeah, project I got to sew for this part, my only real contribution to the design) to polish the shape out of the rough metal. You're left with a bunch of metal pieces curved in random directions unconnected to each other. They are pretty though with the metaled surface pitted and slight dents everywhere from the various hammers. It can take 3 hrs. to shape one piece into it's proper shape.
       Next up, check in as Nash begins to weld the helmet into it's final shape. I hope everyone is enjoying seeing this project take shape. :-)