I recently stumbled across this gem of a paper by Debra McLendon on home sewing thanks to a fellow patternmaker, Dean Dyer. As some of you all know, most major home sewing patterns fit like crap, but frankly lacked the drive to tackle as I find the home sewing market confusing and degrading. Thankfully someone else has undertaken the research for me. While you can dig through the 160 page paper and pick up a lot of info, I suggest skipping to the end (page 140-141) to figure out which of the 5 major pattern companies to pick for you personally. The reason is there is a picture of the major dress company dresses sewn up and placed on the same mannequin for comparison:
Burda is a square body shape (If you had a square body shape/tummy buy this size).
Butterick seems to have the closest hourglass figure (Small 8% of the population)
McCalls is an spoon (Small bust, larger butt).
The New Look is knock off of Butterick (Less extreme version)
Vogue is a Triangle (Larger bust with smaller hips).
Overall, I would say that from a visual aspect....McCalls fits the best in the front visually, the New Look from the back, and Butterick/Vogue from the side. So look at yourself in the mirror. Figure out your overall size, and pick accordingly. I being an Irish woman spoon in a family of spoons will be buying McCalls. You may be something else. Happy sewing.
Burda is a square body shape (If you had a square body shape/tummy buy this size).
Butterick seems to have the closest hourglass figure (Small 8% of the population)
McCalls is an spoon (Small bust, larger butt).
The New Look is knock off of Butterick (Less extreme version)
Vogue is a Triangle (Larger bust with smaller hips).
Overall, I would say that from a visual aspect....McCalls fits the best in the front visually, the New Look from the back, and Butterick/Vogue from the side. So look at yourself in the mirror. Figure out your overall size, and pick accordingly. I being an Irish woman spoon in a family of spoons will be buying McCalls. You may be something else. Happy sewing.
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