Friday, May 11, 2012

Textile Friday: Marks of Good Designers

            My building is full of designers, artists, and craftsmen. It's pretty interesting to watch in terms of giving me some insight into both human nature and what makes good and bad designers. While we all could tell horror stories, I thought I would focus on the positive. In general, when I first got started, I saw good designers as gods who were almost breathing inspiration from the air around them. I mean I grew up on the clothing designer legend. The Ralph Laurens. The larger than life Donna Karen. You name it.
            Now, I've come to believe that the mark of a good designer is actually how willing they are to do research. In the industry this is actually broken down into two distinct separate types of design. Rapid prototyping (throw away for looks only design) and evolutionary design which often is slower to market and involves a lot more testing. When clients skip on paying the bills they end up with rapid prototyping instead of evolutionary and generally a 99% probability of failing at market. Harsh, but true. This is why frankly I find Isaac Mizrahi to be a poor designer compared to say Michael Kors even though they're the same age. Mizrahi is constantly redesigning his customer (few women can actually wear his clothes, let alone the same woman from season to season) while Michael Kors is very into the classics, research, and making men and women look beautiful. He knows and serves his client.
            Which brings me to my second point, good designers make product for clients that serves a specific market or need. It may be whimsical or odd, but something that fills a gap will sell better than a random coffee idea. They don't float long and it is a focus I am working to build in myself.
             Lastly, is that designers actually do the work to make their products successful.  Many designers have rich spouses or do not rely on design work for their main income so they are less hungry. They show up sporadically or don't put in the work necessary to turn designs. If you want a good designer, a really good designer, ask them who pays the light bill. The answer will tell you honestly how hungry the person is to learn to make a worthwhile product for you or to stick it out if things get tough. Sadly, after 3 years, these would be the 3 things I look for when talking to designers in terms of figuring out if I should or should not partner with them. What is your list?
             Custom design has made designers accessible to the mainstream in a way they weren't before.

2 comments:

  1. ... Lastly, is that designers actually do the work to make their products successful. Many designers have rich spouses or do not rely on design work for their main income so they are less hungry. They show up sporadically or don't put in the work necessary to turn designs. If you want a good designer, a really good designer, ask them who pays the light bill. The answer will tell you honestly how hungry the person is to learn to make a worthwhile product for you or to stick it out if things get tough. Sadly, after 3 years, these would be the 3 things I look for when talking to designers in terms of figuring out if I should or should not partner with them....

    Wow this is an interesting comment to me. I seem to fit into this category as far as who pays the light bill.... but I don't find it attractive to believe that you would judge someone on that fact.... I feel that I am fortunate enough that I don't have to work outside the home to have to pay the light bill and that I can focus on my Art and Designs. It is a blessing and that is how I respond to it. Not something that I should be judged against. Wow.... is my main response to this comment.

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  2. Hi Meg, thanks for writing. In response to your question, when I first started I felt much the same way you did. I sewed for 20 years as a homesewer since I was a little kids of 5 or 6, and 2 weeks on the job at my factory job, I learned I knew absolutely nothing. That humble pie was awful to eat, but a great growth step.

    While there should be no difference between an artist who sings for their supper and one who doesn't, in our shop most of the artists who do not rely on their income to survive make on average under 25 pieces a year. Most full-timers make 2-3x that a day (50-60 pieces is typical). This means in a typical year, a person who is creating for cash flow produces several orders of magnitude greater than those that do not. It also means they tend to fail a lot more which I think helps the overall quality of their work as they are forced to survive their mistakes.

    I don't know why, it's counter-intuitive to me, but being hungry is a great driving force for an artist to drum up business and finish projects.

    If you have a different list, I would love to hear yours for designers to work with. Free advice is always that...free. ;-) So don't take it too seriously.

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